(November into December). It wasn't anything like that. It's probably changed with Omicron resurgence, but that should end soon.
When I was there people seemed over it. I'd say less than half of people wore masks in crowded places (museums, West End musical, etc). Nothing was really closed for us because of COVID.
You do have to test when you get there by day 2 (additional test if not vaccinated on day 7). Then test to get back in the US. That was a hassle to figure out and not spend a fortune for a whole family. But the trip overall was awesome.