When I started out on the PhD track, I was very set on "teaching" at an R1 university. I found essentially all the things you listed above to be true. The lifestyle is pretty nice if you have tenure. It is very demanding if you do not have tenure.

I had a colleague who taught for a while. He had a PhD from Georgia Tech. He told me that his colleagues who went into "industry" were making 6-figure salaries and working <50 hours per week. He made about $75k/year and easily worked 50-60 hours a week in the publish or perish windmill. He really began to doubt if he had made the best decision.